The True Brazilian Icon: The History of the Brigadeiro


The True Brazilian Icon: The History of the Brigadeiro

Reading Time: 3 minutes

As Jerry said to Kramer when he wanted him to get Cuban cigars:

“We’re talking about people, right?”

In this case, no.

Not Pelé.

Not Carnival.

Not football.

Not even the beaches of Rio.

We are talking about a small chocolate dessert that has somehow convinced an entire nation that one is never enough.

Lays potato chips famously claim you can’t eat just one. Whoever wrote that slogan has clearly never met a brigadeiro.

For those who have never had one, imagine a rich chocolate truffle made with condensed milk, cocoa, and butter, covered in chocolate sprinkles. It is simple, sweet, and dangerously addictive.

I originally thought of brigadeiros as just another dessert. Then I moved to Brazil.

I quickly learned they are much more than that.

They are everywhere.

Birthday parties.

Family gatherings.

Holiday celebrations.

Bakeries.

Coffee shops.

Supermarkets.

If there is a gathering of Brazilians, there is a good chance a brigadeiro is nearby.

The Surprising History

What makes the story even better is that brigadeiros are not some centuries-old recipe passed down from Portuguese colonists.

They are actually relatively modern.

The dessert emerged in the 1940s following World War II, when ingredients such as fresh milk and sugar could be difficult to obtain. Sweetened condensed milk became a popular substitute in Brazilian kitchens, and cooks began experimenting with new recipes.

At roughly the same time, Brigadier Eduardo Gomes, a Brazilian Air Force officer, was running for president.

Supporters of his campaign reportedly sold the chocolate treats to raise money and attract attention to his candidacy.

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The sweets became associated with the candidate’s military rank, Brigadeiro, and the name stuck.

The politician eventually faded into history.

The dessert did not.

Think about that for a moment.

In many countries, politicians leave behind taxes, regulations, speeches, or monuments.

In Brazil, one left behind chocolate.

That may be the most successful political legacy in history.

A National Treasure

Today, brigadeiros are one of Brazil’s most beloved desserts.

Virtually every Brazilian knows them.

Most have been eating them since childhood.

They are especially associated with birthday parties where trays of brigadeiros often disappear at a speed that would concern both nutritionists and economists.

Everybody loves them. I have never seen anybody turn down a brigadero.

The Real Problem

The problem with brigadeiros is not finding them.

The problem is exercising restraint once you do, and I don’t (stretchy pants here)

You start with one.

One becomes three.

Three becomes six.

Somewhere around the number, we need a new tray, you stop counting and begin negotiating with your conscience.

You tell yourself this is the last one.

Then you notice there are still a few left on the tray somebody was saving to take home.

And suddenly your commitment to self-discipline becomes much less convincing.

Final Thought

Before moving to Brazil, if someone had asked me to name a Brazilian icon, I probably would have mentioned football, Carnival, samba, or perhaps Christ the Redeemer.

Now?

The answer is easy.

The true Brazilian icon may be a small chocolate dessert named after a politician most people barely remember.

Which may be the most Brazilian story imaginable.

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And unlike most politicians, this one still makes people smile.

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